It was odd to wake up and think that we were beginning our last full day at the Hilton Docklands. So much to see yet … but we consoled ourselves with the thought that we’d be back in London in a week, and — as Mark noted — it was beginning to feel like it was time to move on.
The first order of business, we decided, would be the National Theatre backstage tour. We put our names on the waiting list and strolled the river front a bit until our tour time. We considered the London Eye, but the lines were prohibitively long, so we just strolled and observed … the human statues, the well-behaved children, and a woman pushing a large enclosed pram with every bin full of cats.
A statue / a workman
The Houses of Parliament and Big Ben / The London Eye
The National Theatre backstage tour was magnificent. We toured each of the three venues as the guide discussed the features of each that defined the space. The first and largest, the Olivier, is an open stage with more lights than seats, she said. The second is a large traditional proscenium stage with the capability to move entire sets off to the left wing or backstage — or up or down. It was awe-inspiring to think that, as you’re watching what seems to be a fixed set, by all appearances permanent, entire other sets — even from other plays — are poised beneath, or overhead, or to the side or behind. And the third area was a smaller “black box” flexible space mostly used for experimental works.
We also toured the construction, design and props areas. I’d have liked to have seen costuming, which is also done on site (the guide said costuming took up the fourth floor) but that wasn’t part of the tour. Even with some gaps in what we could visit, it was great. I would highly recommend the tour to anyone interested in how plays are presented. I didn’t take photos, but here’s a video (a commercial, really) that will give you an idea of what it’s like:
Afterward, we headed to the HMS Belfast. We’d seen only the exterior the day before. That was another thoroughly satisfying tour, apart from the fact that the engine rooms were closed for maintenance. Here are a few photos:
Scenes on the HMS Belfast
More photos … Page 1 / Page 2 / Page 3 / Page 4
We still had a bit of time left during the business day (most attractions close at 5 or 6 p.m.) so we decided to have a look at the Tower of London. We had tickets to the Ceremony of the Keys at 10 p.m. that night, and I wanted to see the Tower during the regular visiting time, first.
It’s a grand site, but I was a bit disappointed. That’s probably our own fault; we were tired, we didn’t have points of reference, and I was not in the mood to deal with the crowds, which were massive. There was no time or place for contemplation. I’d very much like to visit again under calmer circumstances.
The Tower of London
Needing rest and repast, we headed back to the Docklands. For supper, we decided to visit the small establishment at the end of the block down the street — The Clipper. It was a good choice; an old neighborhood place with casual, friendly service and filling food. By the array of “Hilton Docklands” postcards gathering dust in a nearby card display, I suspect The Clipper proprietors had been hoping for more of a boost from the tourist trade than they were getting (I’m sure most folks take the free shuttle right past their location), but I’m glad it is what it is, and I owe the staff thanks for a friendly welcome.
We even had time for a nap at the hotel before venturing back into the city for the Ceremony of the Keys. Alas, we couldn’t cross through the grounds by the time we arrived, as the East Gate had already closed, but a brisk walk got us to the assembly point on time. (I couldn’t help wondering if there is a superstition about dashing around the Tower grounds counter-clockwise in the moonlight.)
A nice gentleman identifying himself as “Shady” outlined the procedures. His delivery perfectly combined a cheerful self-mockery with a stern insistence that protocol be followed. No cameras, no filming, no disruptions. The crowd (rather large, I thought) of ticket-holders was joined by another group of guests, and the short ceremony proceeded. You’d have to be there. Write well in advance for tickets. It’s not that the ceremony itself is grand (it’s quite modest); it’s all that it carries with it. (Thanks to MikeB for letting us know about it.)
Then back to the Docklands for one more night. We’d found that the hotel shuttle became increasingly crowded as the nights wore on, so, as we had Oyster passes, we found ourselves opting for municipal buses more and more. Getting around London was becoming second nature.